Neck Warmer and Lake Park Variation
by Marnie Maclean
 This neck warmer can be as complex or as simple as you like. These are a great alternative to scarves, which can get tangled or fall off, or even get stuck on or fall into obstacles along the way. I’ll be giving you general instructions with notes for modifications to fit your gauge and size. My neck is pretty long and thin but yours may not be, so try your piece on often to ensure a great fit. The Lake Park version can be modified for any “one sided” stitch pattern, since you won’t have to show the private side of the fabric, so use this as a chance to pick up a stitch you are using in another piece and intersperse it with some ribbing as shown. You can see the other Lake Park designs at http://marniemaclean.com/patterns
For all instructions, the standard fold over neck warmer instructions are shown first, the lake park variant is shown after in brackets []. In any instances where only one number is shown, it applies to all versions.
The standard neck warmer is knit with a merino fiber from Spunky Ecclectic. It is Colorway Red Maple from the Almost Solid Series
The Lake Park neck warmer is knit from a merino/viscose fiber from Chameleon Colorworks, in colorway Autumn
Skill
The standard neck warmer is super easy and can be worked by anyone who is comfortable with knitting and purling.
The Lake Park variant is an intermediate project requiring an ability to work slipped stitch patterns, including crossing stitches as you would for cables. There is also a bit more math involved in determining your stitch count, but if you hand in there, you shouldn’t have a problem.
Supplies
Less than 50 grams of heavy worsted [lace] weight handspun yarn. In both cases, I have used a 2-ply, but singles are fine as well.
US #9 [#4] knitting needles
Approximately 6 [8] Buttons of your choosing. Depending on the length of your neck, you may need more or fewer.
Tapestry needle
Gauge
17 stitches [25 stitches] = 4” in stitch pattern when stretched out
LP Stitch pattern
Areas in white are repeated as often as needed across the row. Areas in blue are worked only once.
Key
Symbol |
Right side |
Wrong Side |
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Knit |
purl |
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Purl |
knit |
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Slip stitch with yarn in back |
Slip stitch with yarn in front |
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Drop slipped stitch to front of work. Knit next two stitches. Knit slipped stitch |
Not worked on wrong side |
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Slip next two stitches. Drop next stitch to front of work. Slip two slipped stitches back. Knit dropped stitch, knit the next two stitches. |
Not worked on wrong side |
 Determining your CO
Standard neck warmer
Measure your neck add 1’-3” or enough to give you a comfortable fit with enough overlap for the button bands which are worked as you go. As a general rule, you will need less ease for finer gauge and more for a thicker gauge Multiply by 4.25 (or your stitch gauge). Round to the closest multiple of 2 + 6.
For the example shown, I estimate that the main portion of my piece will require 56 stitches. My neck is 12,” which I round up to 14” for ease and buttons. I multiply that by 4.25 which is my stitch gauge, which gives me 56, which is a multiple of 2+6.
This will be the number of stitches you will work in the main portion of your neck warmer. Your cast on will be that number multiplied by 1.5.
56 x 1.5 = 84
My cast on for the standard neck warmer is 84 stitches
Lake Park neck warmer
Measure your neck add 1’-3” or enough to give you a comfortable fit with enough overlap for the button bands which are worked as you go. Multiply by 6.25 (or your stitch gauge). Round to the closest multiple of 17+19.
For the example shown, I estimate that the main portion of my piece will require 87 stitches. My neck is 12,” which I round up to 13” for ease and buttons. I multiply that by 6.25 which is my stitch gauge, which gives me 81, which was rounded up to 87 to give a multiple of 17+19.
This will be the number of stitches you will work in the main portion of your neck warmer. Your cast on will use the following formula.
For each multiple of 17, cast on 25 stitches + an additional 28 stitches for your +19.
87 stitches is 4 multiples of 17 + 19
My cast on would be (4 x 25)+28=128 stiches for my cast on
 Lower Ruffle
Please note that this pattern requires a long tail cast on to produce the best effect. Other cast ons may work but I cannot account for the results.
CO 84 [128] stitches or the number of stitches you determined you needed to match your gauge and size.
Row 1: Work (k3, p3) across the first row [(k3, p3)x2, k4, **p3, (k3, p3)x3, p4** work from **to** to last 12 stitches. (p3, k3)x2
Row 2: K3, knit the knits, purl the purls to last 3 stitches, k3 [knit the knits, purl the purls]
Standard Variant Only: Every 4th row work the first 3 stitches as: K1, k2 tog, YO
Repeat row 2 until you have worked 8 [10] rows. You may make this section longer or shorter as you please.
Dropping stitches
Standard neck warmer
K3, **k1, drop the next stitch, k1, p1, drop the next stitch, p1** repeat from ** to ** to last 3 stitches, k3
Lake Park variant
Work as per standard, but when you reach a K4 section, work as [K1, drop the next stitch, k2]
For both versions, you will want to stretch the fabric a bit to help the stitches drop, especially if you are using an animal fiber or textured fiber that may prevent the stitches from coming free. The result should be a ladder that goes to the cast on and causes a slight ruffle. You will also note that this causes the section to lengthen a bit as well.
You now have 56 [87] stitches
 Complete the Neck Warmer Standard Variant Only
K3, knit the knits, purl the purls, to last 3 stitches, k3 except that every 4th row, the first three stitches are worked: K1, k2 tog, YO
Work every row this way until your piece is long enough to fold in half and fit comfortably around you neck. I worked about 48 rows after the ruffle.
Complete Lake Park Variant Only
Main Portion of Neck Warmer
For the remainder of the piece, on every 6th row, work the first 4 stitches as follows:
K2, yo, ssk.
At the same time:
Work 4 rows straight, knitting the knits, purling the purls.
Refer to the chart at the beginning of the pattern. Work chart 3 times (46 rows) or until piece is 1” shorter than desired length, ending on either row 8 or 16.
Top Ruffle
Work one row, knitting the knits, purling the purls.
Next row: Increase one stitch in between each K2 rib, work all other stitches knitting the knits and purling the purls.
Work 2 rows straight, knitting the knits and purling the purls
Next row: Increase one stitch in between each K2 rib, work all other stitches knitting the knits and purling the purls.
Knit next row
BO knitwise
Finishing
Weave in all ends
Try on piece and determine how many buttons you’ll need and where. You may decide to sew on one button per button hole, but I found I only needed 6 buttons on the lower portion of the standard version and only 8 buttons for the Lake Park version.
Optional: work single crochet around both sides and the top of the piece. This is only suggested for piece worked in a finer gauge yarn.
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